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Post by archorn on Mar 3, 2013 20:19:37 GMT -5
Had another thought about making something. This one is still very much in the theory stage so please come with suggestions. I was thinking about field paint only events and first strikes. As most here know you should store the fs nose down for a few weeks for better accuracy but this is kinda hard to to when you can't bring your own paint. I remember reading that someone (can't remember who now and to tired to find the thread), before using tubes to store the rounds nose down for long periods of time, used some sort of lab machine (think its used to separate liquids?) to collect all the heavy paint in the nose as an experiment. So since I'm probably going to a few of these field paint only events this year i thought something similar could be real useful to increase my accuracy (without trying to sneak in my own prepared fs). I suspect these machines cost way to much for me so i started thinking how i could make my own and hopefully a lot cheaper version. So far i know i need an electric motor, some sort of wheel or disk that the motor will spin, 10 round tubes and some zip ties to make a flexible attachment between the wheel/disc and tubes. The basic image i have in mind is something like this 3.bp.blogspot.com/-GF5iLBm-BqM/TxkE5hob7pI/AAAAAAAABGI/eT3LQH_Jmfk/s640/Sl%25C3%25A4nggunga.jpgStill need to research the power of the engine needed and other parts. Suggestions will be apreciated.
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Post by Allu on Mar 3, 2013 20:25:08 GMT -5
Should work wonderfully, think its called something like a centrifugal separator.
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Post by DJmatt123 on Mar 3, 2013 20:33:11 GMT -5
Might look at a cordless drill....
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Post by DJmatt123 on Mar 3, 2013 20:43:49 GMT -5
Another thought, for target practice and sniper competions, I think this would work great. I do not see this working as much when running around the field all day. Unless you are using the SR1 and loading one round at a time and carrying them vertically all the time on the field which would require a free hanging pouch that would rotate when you are prone, I don't think it would take very long for the fill to start to move around. They will be sitting on their side in the mags for a while before they are shot a lot of the time. It's worth a try, but I'm not sure just how much difference it will make, at least with my playing style. I have not done a bunch of testing with this so I could very well be wrong...
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Post by chicago on Mar 3, 2013 21:03:10 GMT -5
In general, having been an organic chem major for while in college back in th late 60s (yes, that's 50 years ago), you could make a centifuge with a drill; but, be careful. You are only doing it to relocate the payload while the reality is; if you use the centrifuge properly, it will separate all, and I mean, all into its base compenents (which is not what you want). Secondly I think you need to find out the vicosity of the paint mix. Gravity may defeat your plans before you start. This is the one area, I've never believe in: "store your rounds upside or right side up." There is no prooof that the moment you load your mags, the paint mixture does move! Sorry to burst everyone bubble...
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Post by DJmatt123 on Mar 3, 2013 22:58:13 GMT -5
I would almost think that the opposite would possible have more effect on them, maybe not the original desire to have the fill as far forward and equiliy distributed in the nose, but storing them tip up so that all the fill is solidly distributed at the back wall so when fired, the force of accelerating would shift the fill less and cause less fluctuation in the shot.
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Post by archorn on Mar 4, 2013 8:33:39 GMT -5
thought some more on the problem and remembered the only time i have seen the blue fill (you know the field paint only fill) it has been quite liquid (not like the white that seems to be between a liquid and a paste) so this probably won't make a noticeable difference on those (if you know differently please tell me). Will probably work for the white ones but most often when you use white paint you bring your own (at least for me) please excuse my strange English
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Post by Allu on Mar 5, 2013 10:16:24 GMT -5
To be honest, I have always thought of it this way, that the storing tip down is a long term thing and that firststrikes when stored for months, do as all other paint and seem to separate and create a thicker/ heavier residue on the bottom, thus i actually fund that theory of storing nose up plausible, however, the optimal conditions would be that the paint would be an even mix I guess. The fact that it is more like a paste, is definitely a factor that needs to be accounted for. For that it could be a good experiment to empty some fs in a glass jar isolate it with a plastic film and put it somewhere dark and see if there is a observable difference or layering of it. Just my 2 cents please analyse and comment this is by no means some defined truth and this IS a interesting subject. There is also the question if these methods give measurable differences. As always repeatable and consistent results = accuracy, and that's the only thing I'm convinced of On another note, what would be a statistically acceptable minimum number of rounds to establish a pattern, the more the better, but it's a expensive round to just throw downrange 10 maybe?
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nessy
Member
I'm watching you from afar. Don't worry, though. I'm not one of those creepy stalker types. :D
Posts: 132
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Post by nessy on Mar 5, 2013 13:43:19 GMT -5
I have always used 10 in my accuracy testing. It's a well rounded number to gives good spread, and it's not excessive in my eyes. Some may differ and only use 5 or some other amount. If eel that anything more than 10 would clutter up the target, depending on the target used. I know that for the 12" targets I use, 10 seems to be the max number I can put on it to get a good spread without it looking over cluttered.
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