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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Mar 3, 2011 14:57:57 GMT -5
Finally got around to do pics of my project. First up, hears a rough build of her. Its just slapped together right now for the picture show. I've got a 12 inch barrel on right now, 3/4CPVC barrel. Cheap yah, but effective. Did some porting on it, 8 1/32 inch holes per side, 1/2 inch apart. It actually reduced the sound y 40%. Its more of a drop accuracy right now. The balls fly strait, but fall out at 150 feet, unless I arch them. Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Mar 3, 2011 15:06:00 GMT -5
Hears some body work I'm doing. Just cutting off the ridges. Far left is a completely removed and sanded ridge. I also shortened the feed neck so it would sit more closely to the gun. P.S. Yes it is cocked, in case anyone was wondering. Was doing some test firing before. Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 21:55:53 GMT -5
I have always wanted a pump marker even since I got into paintball. But when I got into paintball, the pump markers weren't the only option for markers anymore, semi's and electros where the new game. But the pumps were still the favored choice for players. Which meant that they were still expensive. Too expensive for me, and still too steep for me these days(about $500 too expensive). Well, one day I decided to make my own pump. I had all the parts and the know how, so I set off to build one. The project gun was my first marker I ever owned, a Brass Eagle Stryker. (link to the original look) www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Brass-Eagle-Striker-Semi-automatic-Paintball-Gun/2099907/product.htmlI started with some body work, removing body lines, chopping the feed neck, just little things. Then came the camo job. A simple, rough woodland camo. Then it was off to the internals. I had to do some bolt pin work because the stacked tube format had a single pin that connected both bolts together. I had to have both bolts cocked back, but have the top bolt slide forward to load the ball inot the barrel, while the bottom hammer bolt stayed cocked. THis was done by making two pins(one for each bolt) and having them connect together by half notches in each pin. This would allow me to **** both bolts back and then slide the top bolt forward while having the hammer bolt stay put. I also had to extend the top bolt to allow the connecting rod to the pump handle to connect. That was done by threading a bolt into the rear of the top bolt. I filed off the threads and polished it up for looks. I also had to make a new valve pin because teh stock pin had notched in it to allow air to leak by.( yes I could have filled in the wholes with JB weld, but I wanted to make a new one anyways.) The barrel was also made by me. It is 3/4 CPVC pipe. It is a 12 inch ported barrel. The ports are 1/16 inch port holes. The Strykers did not come with threaded barrels, instead they came with glued in plastic barrels. I removed mine, and now the new barrel is friction fit in place. So far it works nicely, and the ports reduced about 30% of the noise( as oppose to no ports). And the pump handle if from a wamlart pump that I pulled from the trash. The stock is box aluminum. It is two parts, the rear shoulder piece and the strait part/drop forward. It was specifically made to only fit a long 9oz or smaller tank. The ASA is an on/off ASA held in place with a high rise scope mount, and is plumbed with macro lines. And the hopper is 50 round loader. There is still a lot of work to be done to it. I have some more painting to do, and some spring tensions to work out. But here is what she looks like so far, enjoy Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 21:56:41 GMT -5
Tanks and stock shot Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 21:57:11 GMT -5
ASA mounting Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 21:59:06 GMT -5
pump handle Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 22:01:37 GMT -5
Connecting rod to top bolt Attachments:
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Post by Lt.Col.Vortex on Jul 25, 2011 22:03:20 GMT -5
fancy bolt pin work Attachments:
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