I'm considering taking the back off the
Flasc suppressor and it's
insert out, so that the
hush will fit to the tip and use the
Flasc adapter at the tip of the suppressor (no sound dampering material just let the configuration do the dampening and redirection of the blast wave.
Haven't tried it yet, but might have time today. With it open in the back, all the sound (most of it, cause the blast should be discouraged from going out the front - cause there is a first strike in its way. And therefore, most of the sound will go out the
hush, bounce around inside the
flasc and finally find the lower air pressure at the back of the
flasc and try to take the path of least resistance there rather than trying to head back into the little holes in the
hush! That should help redirect the sound.
And, I'm thnking I'm going to use just an 8 inch barrel then (so,
overall barrel length will be around 16 inches total). I do own two
lapco riffled 8 inch 0.683 (yes, they do exist - but you need to call and special order presuming there are any left.
I have serial numbers 07 and 08 out of a run of 50). And one
hammerhead 8 inch - on my old faithful MP7, the
silent knight. I think it will work on either and either would be a good choice.
Those, I'll compare quickly to the 8 inch 0.688
hammerhead. This may sound strange; but for me I use a t9.1 setup as a riffle to compare the 8 inch barrels (I think I get a better comparison for effeciency and accuracy then when using the barrel in pistols).
They are both fine barrels. You'd be happy with either. like the
lapco's big brother the 14 inch one piece, they are not ported, they are 0.683 and they are less effecient. But pretty much right on from 50 meters away, where they were tested. And, to my know in the 100 rounds I put thru the 8 inch
lapco and the
hamerhead (a box of first strikes), I saw no drop, like I saw in the big brother in the same number of rounds. And, damn, if not my luck, on the last shot, a First strike broke in the
lapco shorty barrel (was using remote HPA source,
ninja reg at
500 psi and there was still 2000 psi in the tank). I used the same tank at 2000 to shot 50 FS deom the hammerhead so it wasn't a pressure change and same new box of FS, so it wasn't different rounds.
As far as the 8 inch
hammerhead 0.688, it was more effecient (had to turn the reg on the T9.1 down - only adjustment made to the marker). Then, as we were chrono'ing, we got these reading "in a row" 278, 278, 278, 278, 278; we stopped thought something was wrong with the chrono reset it; stuck my long
hammerhead barrel in, didn't change anything else. Got 281. Went back to the
hammerhead shorty, 278, 276, 278., 278 Chrono was working my little
hammerhead was amazing! And, it was just as accuarate in the remaining 40 short, 5 mags as the
lapco.
Their patterns were too close to tell. Remember, I changed nothing else, even the sights (so, the patterns were in a different spots). The lapco was lower and to the right. My
hammerhead was almost dead on but slightly higher. And, their were no drops with the
hammerhead or the
Lapco.
If I were running Co2, I'd probably recommend the more effieceinct
hammerhead! Some people are die hard
lapco and turn a blind eye to the occasional drops and how the barrel rips up first strikes. If you are a die hard, the
lapco is your baby (and the shorty was a little more efficient than the big brouther presumably cause the barrel has less time to grab at the FS round and squeeze it, slowing it down while in the barrel).
Lapcos:
Hammerhead:
Note:
M50 not considered, it was just on there when shot was taken!
I'm thinking the
hammerhead is going to be slighly quieter because of the lower pressure. But, at the shooters end it's going still be noticeable so have some shoot and you go down stream and listen, and then of course, switch and have them go down stream. Use a ring of foam just outside the
Flasc to really break up that pop!
Use the Flascs supressors outer shroud. Slide it back toward you so that the outer cover overs your foam which is on the hard surface or threads but not not on any porting. That should make for on bad *** fake surppressor and look dam cool too. Kinda like this:
Of course, right now that's not the hush in their; but, you should get the idea about venting and dampening and redirecting the sound from the old pix.
One important last note: I'm not going to let the foam be right up against the back of the suppressor cavity, I want a larger maybe at least a one or two inch air gap (remember I haven't tried that config yet). So the shock wave will first see lower air pressure for sure at the back of the supprressor presumably travelling less and less than 280 feet per second and is leaking our the shroads larger holes as it heads toward your "lightly packed, high density, soft foam!
And, as far as it impacting accuracy, (remember it is untested right now; but, I think we will have air speed and hush porting on our side).
The foam or whatever packing material you decide to use is way back away from the hush and
will not, I repeat, won't be seen by the First Strike round until the round is spinning and outside the suppressor. Thus eliminating the variances caused by packing materila inside the suppressor moving slightky from shot to shot!
