Range of the .683

[wa5p]

I understand how the .683 Rifled Lapco/Tiberius barrel is supposed to operate, (assuming its not chopping paint).

The rifling in the tight bore initiates the spiraling, allowing the fins of the FSR to immediately begin to perpetuate the round.

My only concern is that more barrel drag would limit the distance of the round.

Question: What kind of distance are you getting inside effective range? Same question for the hammerhead owners.

[DJmatt123]

The tight bore should not affect the range, you still chrono it at 280 or whatever your field allows so it is still going the same speed when it leaves the barrel. It will take more air to get it up to that speed so your efficiency will go down a bit. I had it for a little while but sold everything before I got to do a lot of testing with it but I didn't have any problems with it.

[wa5p]

Obviously...

Good point. HaHa. Thanks.

[Hitman4Hire]

You bring up a very interesting point. I find there are pros and cons to the lapco.683. The pros are greater grouping at short to mid range. The negatives is you will sacrifice accuracy at extremely long distances, (275 ft and up).

I find that when chrono'ing i have up to a 30 FPS range, and the more rounds i put thru my barrel the more dust that is accumulated and over a period of time my FPS continues to drop. Due to the FPS fluctuation of the rounds, i can not dial in my target as easily at long ranges.

So i use stock barrel for engagements 275 and up and the Lapco barrel for 275ft and below.

[Wolfen]

I actually disagree with you. the Lapco .683 barrel is both dead accurate at ANY range (there simply ain't no barrel out there with the same accuracy) and for for me it's super consistant. Both .683 barrels i've shot have had +-4 fps from average even after putting 60 shots through (two different markers too).

Now there are obvious cons to it as well, like efficiency. Especially if you use 12 grams you only get 22 shots out of it at 280 fps (with polished internals). If you use the tank in stock or remote i don't really think i matters much since you'll get atleast 100 shots through it before you need to refill from a 13 ci tank. Also the cleaning of it can really be a pain if you don't figure out how-to do it. I've myself have made a special custom swab that works great for cleaning it.

All in all though, if you plan on using First strikes ONLY the lapco .683 will be your best option, Especially considering what you pay per first strike. If you plan on using regular paint as well then go for something else since the .683 rifled barrel does not work very well with normal paint.

[Lt.Col.Vortex]

I haven't used either barrels or the fs rounds ( I'm a regular paint sniper...so if you want, just ignore my remarks), but personally I dont see the point in adding a barrel twist to a fs round when firing. I just think your asking for a barrel break.

Anytime you make the round make more contact with the barrel, you will get more accuracy. But there comes a time when you have TOO much contact and you break the paint due to too much friction. There is obviously a compromise between the two..plus you have to take into account the style of game you play( do you need to be THAT accurate at the expense of a possible break and the decrees of marker efficiency because you had to use more air to expel the round).

Sure we all would like perfect accuracy, but I dont see the point is that kind of barrel for the fs rounds.

Now, i am most lickly wrong on this..so feel free to correct me

[Wolfen]

The reason why you need a rifling for the first strikes is because shot through a straight barrel the firststrike will be unstable and won't rotate the right way for about 30 m before stabilizing. This obviously makes it less reliable and your accuracy will go down ( you never know exactly when it will stabilize). What the rifling does is give the right rotation to the first strikes while it's still in the barrel which means that it'll fly straight right from the barrel (giving you a very notable accuracy boost). Now the reason why lapco went with the tight .683 bore was because after ALOT of testing they found out that it was the absolute best preforming option (because you need the under bore to get the rifling to properly engage). Does this make it more prone to barrel breaks? yes i guess so, but i've shot 500 FS rounds though the .683 and i've never had a barrel break or a shot drop short.

Also since there's coming out other rifling barrels i think i should point something out. NON of them will offer the same accuracy as the lapco. why? Because the bore is too big for the rifling to properly engage (using a rifled barrel with bore .688 when the rounds are .684-.686 is pretty self explanatory...). Of course these new barrels will give you some more efficiency but it WILL be at the cost of some accuracy. We can't simply get everything now can we? will always be a tradeoff.

[wa5p]

chrono'd today: 280
fired 100 rounds.

sighted in at 125 ft. was hitting goggles every time.
backed up to 200 ft. was hitting facemask 4/5 times.
250 rounds through the barrel, no breaks.

loving this setup. one thing i noticed...

These 1st strike rounds are hard as ****. I realized 1/2 way through the day on Saturday that I needed to aim for something solid. Goggles, Gun/hopper, pod pack, and if none of that was available, the sternum/rib cage. had a few bounces when i contacted somebody's belly and legs. Also, I am now utilizing the double tap method just to put two rounds on point. But it was a moment of pride when i got my 1st gog shot... 2 right down the pipe. I double tapped at about 100ft, broke both on his gogs. dude couldnt even find his way back to the dead zone.

moreover, I F***ing love this barrel. It is a pain in the *** to clean which is why i will be buying another before LL5. ;D

[Lt.Col.Vortex]

LOL..well congrats on the new love...and I'm sorry to hear about your new money hole ( fs rounds aint cheap )

Quick question, how loud is your marker now? And are you using Co2?

[Wolfen]

Actually since switching to about 90% first strike use i cut down my yearly ammo cost by atleast ½ simply by shooting so much less.¨

Also the Lapco rifled barrel is quite loud (which is why i've ordered a Flasc suppressor i can mod for it). But since you can hit people like 300 ft away without much problem the loudness is debatable according to situation

[chicago]

Mar 30, 2012 10:04:49 GMT -5 Wolfen said:

Actually since switching to about 90% first strike use i cut down my yearly ammo cost by atleast ½ simply by shooting so much less.¨

Also the Lapco rifled barrel is quite loud (which is why i've ordered a Flasc suppressor i can mod for it). But since you can hit people like 300 ft away without much problem the loudness is debatable according to situation

Remember, you'll need a barrel adapter from flasc for the flasc to tiberius/lapco threading. But, you are right about silencing it. The rifled barrel is quite loud without the flasc suppressor. I finally got a db meter and with the suppressor, the shot is actually quieter than the normal voice of the db meter operator as he's reporting the decibel readings. We laughed when we saw that.

Two great choices the Tiberius/Lapco 0.683 riffled and the Flasc Suppressor. and, I think noise reduction can be an important tool in a sniper's arsenal.

Finally, I too have found I used far less paint when I switched to just running first strikes only.

[wa5p]

ya no porting and you use extra air to squeeze that round out of the tight barrel. So Its probably as loud as they come but i saw that Lapco has come out with a barrel extension called the hush shot which uses a series of porting to really quiet it down. It is Tiberius threaded but i dont know if it is .683 or rifled. Ill need to check into that.

I use HPA and ya rounds are expensive but it really makes you choose your shot so you shoot way less.

[Wolfen]

Yea i know i need the adapter (also ordered) all i miss now is a damned pistol barrel for my sniper, too bad there's like no place to pick up one cept for flasc and they still have no information on when they will get getting any in stock again... sucks i want a barrel

[Lt.Col.Vortex]

Good, you use HPA.

And I was about to give you a run down on porting, but there is no need. You do really need a suppressor though instead of ports...or a longer barrel.

I would say to port, but since you turned up your pressures just to make the speed, I wouldn't port. A longer barrel is most likely your best choice, but again, you have problems making that speed with the length you have now. While longer lengths will reduce noise, your back to square one with speed issues. So yah, a suppressor is your best choice. And luckily, this forum allows you to talk about such things as suppressors and silencers Thank you forum staff

[wa5p]

Everyone I talk to says that suppressors or (fake suppressors) dont indeed actually do anything yet I hear that the Hammerhead M50 w/ reverse porting goes a long way in noise reduction. I will not change out of my .683 rifled barrel for anything but i would consider buying a suppressor. what is your opinion on them?

[Wolfen]

the Tiberius fake suppressor doesn't work at all but the flasc suppressor does reduce the noice quite abit (and you can easily add some form of cloth or foam to make it work even better), i've also heard that the lapco one does reduce sound as well but dunno.

Edit: do note that you will need the flasc thread adapter for it to work with the .683 barrel (or any tiberius barrels)

[chicago]

I have two FLASC fake suppressors and they are great. I forgot to remove the small bubble wrap that came inside (packing material) as I recall. But, since they seem to make the report on my marker's less irritating to my ears and the ears of others around me, I decided not to change anything. What I believe happens whether you use/keep the packing material or not, is that the sound vents out the double ported extensions inside the suppressor and comes out the back of the suppressor thru series of larger holes that surround the suppressor. So, the majority of the sound is redirected out the back toward you and not thru the front of the barrel toward your opponents, thus, the quieter report.

I have firsthand experience that the redirection works. Since I've had mine (years now), I've always had people ask "why didn't you take that shot" or "was your marker down." I always looked at them strange cause I was firing a lot. Well, one day I was out with VoodooAddict and he was on my nine or ten throughout the game. He had just gotten his FLASC suppressors and at the end I asked him why he didn't take any shots. He said he got like three or four people out. Then I had deja vu. I remembered others saying the equivalent to me and I immediately realized that it was his new FLASC Suppressors.

So, I know from personal experience and tests (using a db meter) that they do what you want them to do. I also own a Lapco silencer (not the new one they are hocking now, the older one). It makes things quieter cause of the additional porting (all porting on barrels helps "silence" markers; but it can't hold a candle to the FLASC in my opinion. If you like the look, its ok; but it doesn't work as well as the FLASC cause it just ports out the sides and therefore does not redirect the sound backwards.

[wa5p]

Sounds great. Is Flasc even making them right now? Where can I find them? Also, does anyone have any experience with Hammerhead M50 reverse ported fake suppressor?

Lastly...

Do fake suppressors interfere interfere with accuracy even just a smidgen?

[chicago]

Apr 1, 2012 17:55:56 GMT -5 wa5p said:

Sounds great. Is Flasc even making them right now? Where can I find them? Also, does anyone have any experience with Hammerhead M50 reverse ported fake suppressor?

Lastly...

Do fake suppressors interfere interfere with accuracy even just a smidgen?

No, not at paintball ranges. If you were making a shot from over a 1000 yards. But, from 100 yards, that's 300 feet, the length of a foot ball field I've seen no detectable differences. It is one of the first things I checked when I got mine. Raw barrel versus barrel with suppressor vs bird cage tip. No discernible differences. may be with co2 recovery time versus slight variations in the metal barrel but, I'd think the suppressor would actually make it more consistant, i.e. less chance of radical temperature change because of the added mass of the suppressor (i.e. less delta temperature change between shots).

God bless Tiny Tim. Hey, my new meds are working.

[archorn]

When you are talking about the Flasc Fake Supressor, Do you mean with or without an insert (basicly a 5" extention)?
if with an insert, is the insert ported?
I'm guessing you use a ported insert but i want to be sure